Daily News | These plant-based restaurants are energizing Philly’s vegan scene
are confit to herb-infused moistness then fried into some stellar nuggets streaked with sweet-and-sour Jimmy Nardello jelly. A smoky maitake is the ultimate umami bomb, nestled like a bear paw into mashed potatoes ringed by an intense pea miso tamari that takes three days to make.
Pietramala’s focus on pasta was a mild disappointment, its extruded noodles gummy rather than snappy, and often over sauced. A fascinating take on cacio e pepe sauced with pureed lacto-fermented white sweet potatoes and four different peppercorns needed just a glaze of the flavorful concoction, not a dousing.
The result in Primary Plant Based is the one vegan restaurant in Philadelphia I’d most enjoy visiting once a week. McKinney’s humble attitude infuses the former Cadence space near Fishtown with an unpretentious and casual neighborhood vibe. And yet the menu showcases some of the most creative scratch vegetable cooking in town, emphasizing the best produce from local farms in hearty, globe-hopping inspirations that reflect McKinney’s eclectic career.
His masa ball soup with corn flour dumplings floating in earthy guajillo broth is a full-flavored Mexican riff on the matzo ball canon. Korean-style kimchi pancakes come topped with crunchy slices of confit celery root “sashimi” topped with chia seeds bloomed like caviar with tamari. Cardoons are braised into lusciously tender stalks that taste like artichoke hearts for a po-boy-style sandwich with a mushroom version of the debris gravy from Parasol’s in New Orleans.
Stick with the fresh apple fritters for dessert; the fruit crisp was a microwaved disappointment. It was an odd and unnecessary shortcut for a restaurant that’s generally so satisfying because it takes very few.
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