This New NYC Restaurant Serves Up Turn-of-the-Century European Classics With Modern Twists

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This New NYC Restaurant Serves Up Turn-of-the-Century European Classics With Modern Twists
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Kolomon is an ode to old school Viennese cuisine.

To begin your meal, you may opt for oysters—which come with an atomizer filled with Gölles asparagus vinegar that you can spritz on the bivalves yourself—or a duck liver parfait that’s switched out Grappa or Sauternes for Kracher, a sweet Austrian wine. Larger dishes range from the light to the hearty: A seared fluke with mandelbrot brown butter is Glocker’s take on trout amandine, while beef tenderloin with a bone-marrow crust is perfect for the crisp autumn weather on the horizon.

Classic French and Austrian dishes also make an appearance, of course. The triple crème soufflé features Pleasant Ridge cheddar and is accompanied by mushroom jam. And the most Austrian of dishes—schnitzel—hews to its standard form, served with lingonberries, sea buckthorn and a potato and cucumber salad.

Viennese cafés have long been known for their desserts as well, and Koloman’s pastry chef, Emiko Chisholm , has taken her task seriously. The classic Sacher torte and apple strudel are highlights, but more inventive options also shine. A duck egg crème brûlée is unexpectedly paired with caramelized pineapple and mint, while Cherries & Champagne brings together vanilla custard, fresh cherries, balsamic, oats and Champagne ice cream.

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