WIRED A “smart” toaster with a good-looking touchscreen. Tempting innovations like quicker toasting and settings for different kinds of bread. TIRED It costs a whopping $350 to $400 and doesn’t toast very well. There’s really no excuse for that.
Results were only consistent in their inconsistency. I took pictures of almost all the toast my wife and I made over the course of a month, placing the finished slice next to the picture of what it should have come out like on the screen, and it rarely hit the mark. Disappointing sidenote: I bought a top-ratedtwo-slot toaster to use as a sort of high-end control to test against, and that had a similar problem toasting the bottom half-inch of most slices.
A typical toaster review would feature a bunch more toast testing here, going into how it performed at different doneness settings, with accompanying photos of grids of toast and how the toaster would do making consecutive rounds of toast. Had the Revolution done better, I would have done this, but it never got that far. I would also have wondered whether we really need algorithms for toast. I’d ask whether a cinnamon-swirl setting is helpful. I’d wish for a setting for thick slices.
I looked at its screen and realized that with our lifetimes of toasting experience, we’ve already figured out how to do that “smart” stuff with our old-school Cuisinarts, Sunbeams, and Osters. The Revolution occasionally did fine, but it never did, and when a toaster costs $350 or $400 and fails to produce noticeably, consistently incredible toast, testing just ends and the thing gets shipped back.
In my case, the Revolution was over, and my old Cuisinart took back its spot on the counter. Its mild eccentricities will be happily tolerated until it gives up the toast ghost. When it does, I'll just buy another one.
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