❝ The Italian foreign minister suggested Ireland’s plans were part of efforts to deliberately replace Italy’s food heritage with products from abroad, propounding something like a version of the “great replacement” theory, but for Italian food
Italian national identity is profoundly linked to food. The emergence of the cultural idea of Italian food is closely associated with the unification of Italy in 1871. Its culinary equivalent was performed by the father of Italian cuisine, Pellegrino Artusi, who brought together recipes from all Italian regions in his landmark 1891 cookbook Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.
Serious economic interests are invested in the concept of the Mediterranean diet. Italian wine exports were worth €7.1 billion in 2021, part of food and beverage exports that reached a record €52 billion that year. The issue has blown up now because Ireland was required under single market rules to notify the European Commission of this change, and the time period for the executive to object recently expired without complaint, despite pressure from the EU’s major wine-producing states.Alcohol industry groups had lodged objections to Ireland’s plans as disproportionate or unfounded, and warned against introducing divergent labelling standards within the single market.
Meanwhile the World Heart Federation has sought to debunk the idea that a glass of wine a day is good for health, referring to this as a “myth”.
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