There was a time when a critic's review could make or break a designer. But as the industry evolves, do they even matter?
, "None of us are being paid, so we're free to talk as much shit as we'd like to. You serve a bad collection, we will serve you the critique it deserves."
There was a time when a scathing review could really harm a designer's business , especially early on in their career. Conversely, there has always been something special about the buzz surrounding a new "industry darling" who enjoys critical success early on.
There wasn't a designer I spoke with who didn't maintain appreciation for the time-honored practice of fashion criticism, from Gordon, who helms an iconic 40-year-old fashion house, to Chromat founder Becca McCharen-Tran, one of the industry's most radical trailblazers. Designer Willy Chavarria is partial to Guy Trebay and Robin Givhan, he tells me: "They write from a profoundly intellectual perspective, and I respect the way they see the greater purpose of fashion."
"I think early in my career, I did [take reviews to heart]. A great review would make me elated," he says. "I'm always honored to be written up. I love a conversation and different opinions." "When we were trying to sell our collection to buyers like Nordstrom or whoever, they actually really did care about reviews," McCharen-Tran says. "I think they were led by those gatekeepers or whatever you want to call it, big publications. They were swayed. If we were in, that actually helped us get these big orders at the stores because it was the same crowd. You have that endorsement.
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