During the pandemic, Parachute's famous bing bread didn't just become more expensive because of ingredient costs; it was also standing in the way of equitable compensation for staff
We often presume to understand restaurant economics because we know what a chicken breast costs at the supermarket. “I could make this dish at home for $5,” goes the refrain. Could we? Here, Eater looks at all the costs in a popular restaurant dish to see what goes into it, and how much profit comes out.
Restaurant owners usually spend a lot of time working out how to make ends meet: how much to charge for a dish, how to choose ingredients, how to pay staff. For years that’s what owners Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark did to offer the bacon-, potato-, and scallion-stuffed bing bread at their restaurant Parachute in Chicago. Fried and baked, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, the bing bread was beloved — and yielded just 63 cents per loaf sold, a 4.2 percent profit .
The owners feel the time is right to perform a major reset on staffing practices. They’re getting rid of the subminimum wage, the economic framework that supports tipping and cements foundational problems within hospitality like wage disparity between front and back of house and systemic bias against servers by customers. “We’ve inherited a broken template,” says Kim. “But we have to be careful about the new vision of how labor works.
If Kim and Clark want to pay their workers fairly, it makes no financial sense to hold on to the bing bread. To understand why, it’s best to look at the bing bread two ways: first, based on pre-pandemic costs that yielded a 4.2 percent profit.
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