“Clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn,” says Virginie Viard of her Autumn/Winter 2022 couture collection for Chanel. “I can’t see myself doing it any other way”
There is also a thread that weaves Viard’s Chanel to Lagerfeld’s. His first collection for the house, in 1983, took Chanel’s work in the 1930s as inspiration – the least Chanel of Chanel, where rather than 20s little black dresses or 50s suits, Chanel experimented with romantic lace gowns, vibrant prints of feather and flowers, and even extravagant historicism.
The equestrian theme results in fuller trousers that wink at jodhpurs, at boots that resemble those worn to ride, in wide-brimmed hats – feminine capelines, but also tipping their cap to stetsons. Horsewomen come from all countries of the world, after all. And elongated coats sketched the line of elegant riding habits of the past.
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