Yohji Yamamoto's fall 2023 menswear collection has arrived. See every look here:
Yohji Yamamoto’s love of the mix applies equally to music and fashion—a guitarist, composer and singer who has given concerts himself, he personally tended to a playlist that segued from jazz to gypsy and Middle Eastern sounds. There was a precise reason for that: this collection sprang from the designer’s admiration for the melting pot of civilizations and languages in ancient and Middle Europe.
Pieces made of noble materials, including several types of Japanese silk, velvet, and thick brocade in resonant, shadowy hues, were layered one atop the other in considered measure. The most technically complex development was a double-faced fabric printed not once but twice with two completely different ikat motifs; that appeared as jackets, trousers and coats that themselves symbolized the age-old cross-pollination of Asian and European cultures.
Fall is shaping up to be about the narrow jacket. At Yamamoto, it came embellished with a flurry of straps or, in the case of a couple pieces, looser, single-breasted and checked, with artisanal embroidery on the breast pockets. Elsewhere, jackets presented a restrained explosion of flouncing here and there, or seemingly freestyle flourishes in contrasting white. Japanese denim, too, was worked in unexpected and less casual ways, as a trench or a sweeping cape.
At 79, Yamamoto feels he still has many horizons yet to explore. “Culture is a mix of everything,” he said. “There is no border with materials.”
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