Aldama is one of NYC’s most exciting new Mexican restaurants to open in years, says Eater NY Critic qualityrye (Via EaterNY)
in South Williamsburg, a pulsating, mezcal-fueled ode to Mexico City, an inky mole takes the shape of an abstract painting. A black mound of molten seeds and chiles sits on a ceramic plate, like lava cooling over asphalt. Cooks place a canopy of truffles and herbs atop, decorating the mole with flashes of green and grey. And that’s it. A mole negro often enriches a pile of pulled turkey, but the pre-Columbian specialty doesn’t have to adorn an expensive protein to be a great dish.
Counterclockwise, from top: A carrot and daikon tostada, owner Christopher Reyes and chef Gerardo Alcaraz, patrons in the outdoor garden. What sets Aldama apart — aside from its throbbing energy, cozy bar room, and Latin pop soundtrack — is that it ranks as one of the city’s most technically minded modern Mexican spots. The chef’s plating style frequently evokes fastidious magazine art direction, though never at the expense of creating something that can’t be gobbled down after sipping a wee bit too much mezcal.
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