Being alone in Warsaw in December is not everyone’s idea of a good holiday, but for me its streets are haunted by the peace that follows terrible suffering
I presume a child was about to be baptised. I don’t know for sure because I fled the building. I don’t speak Romanian or Polish and I felt like an intruder at a private ceremony. But there was something so beautiful about the warm light illuminating the icons and the smell of candles and incense that it brought me back to times long ago when my own childhood Christmas was a wonderful refuge from the mundane.
I walked through the Christmas market, a long straggling laneway of wooden huts selling mulled wine, sausages, jewellery and fur hats. The crowds squeezed together and held their children’s hands, and took pictures of each other sitting beside Santa Claus. He was so real that I couldn’t resist giving him a wave and indeed he waved back so I knew it was definitely him.
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