Sinead O’Dwyer has constantly sought to challenge and reframe how we perceive the fashion industry and how garments are made.
Sine?ad O’Dwyer has constantly sought to challenge and reframe how we perceive the fashion industry, how garments are made, and the types of bodies clothes are designed for, writes Ruth O’Connor.
“I was not sure I wanted to participate in the industry because there were things that didn’t really sit right with me. I had heard a lot about Zowie Broach – a very interesting person in terms of the intersection of art and fashion and her own brand Boudicca,” says O’Dwyer. “Her vision is more about what you want to contribute to the industry than about graduating with a particular type of collection.
She still uses these body casts to inform many of her silhouettes. “I am trying to distance myself from the standardised rules we learned about making patterns for the female body and start with my own version of things based on real bodies that I have life-cast.” Her shirts and jackets feature cup details that celebrate the wearer’s form without having cleavage on show or without fitted shapes. Meanwhile, a twist on masculine tailoring sees a necktie detail split to form a criss-cross bodice that accentuates the bust. “A lot of the shirts I do were designed on a size 18, so they look good on a smaller size, but they look especially good on the sample size that I developed them on because that was the original design intention,” she says.
It is refreshing too, to see such sexy clothing on bodies that are not normally portrayed as sexy in mainstream media. “My size range for the runway is 6 to 30 which means we can cast a wide range of people – although sometimes there are accessibility considerations depending on the space. It is really amazing that we have the opportunity to show such a diversity of people in that world, and yes, my clothing is very sexy.
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