The Rolls-Royce of pies and the warmest welcome at the UK's best pub, just an hour from Manchester
I’ll get the criticism out of the way first. I had to get my own vinegar for my chips. Well, I didn’t have to. I could have waited, but I did get it myself in the end, ducking under the stairs by the bar to retrieve a bottle of Sarson’s.
Arriving first, a bowl of homemade salted potato skin crisps, and then a plate of little croquettes . They’re like miniature fried blobs of gnocchi, and quite seriously what’s not to like about that? More starters arrive, a plate of plumped and pickled anchovies, with bright green olive oil and slices of scorched blood orange. It’s so pretty it seems a shame to break the spell. The citrus cured Chalk Stream trout, sitting in a pool of warm buttermilk and parsley sauce, is very handsome too.
Today’s curried mutton pie, using sheep from Burholme Farm on the other side of the Lakes, is encased in pastry made with mutton fat and is stuffed generously with slowly-cooked pieces of mutton shoulder and offal. It is so golden it almost glows, and when you nudge the top with a knife, gravy comes out of the little hole at the top.
Puddings were difficult to justify, but they’re included with the set menu, so in for a penny. A browned puff pastry galette with almond custard, bitter marmalade ice cream and preserved pieces of Seville orange from co-owner Kathy’s garden in Andalucia was spectacular. As was a dark slab of Valrhona chocolate, shot through with peanut butter, accompanied by a salty milk ice cream. Might have been a bit delirious by this stage.
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