The Ukrainian dumplings known as varenyky are similar to Japanese gyoza and Turkish manti, a reminder that the world’s food traditions have a lot in common.
Varenyky are a kind of Ukrainian dumpling. They are made from a simple wheat dough, rolled and shaped into half-moons, and stuffed with various fillings before being boiled and served with lashings of melted butter and sour cream. I first read about varenyky in a wonderful 2015 cookbook called “Mamushka” by the Ukrainian food writer Olia Hercules. Ms.
I have never been to Ukraine, but the moment I read Ms. Hercules’s recipe for these dumplings, I recognized them. Varenyky remind me of the rich, buttery, ricotta-stuffed tortelloni I once devoured on a trip to Parma in Italy, and of the many kinds of boiled and steamed dumplings I ate on a trip to Nanjing in China. This Ukrainian stuffed pasta also has a family resemblance to the gyoza of Japan and the manti of Turkey.
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