A new Dublin restaurant, Kaldero, promises a vibrant Asian culinary experience, but its reliance on celebrity chef involvement raises questions about its authenticity and commitment to its stated mission.
New venture in former Wagamama premises smacks of an exercise in bean counting that amounts to culinary gaslighting. Kaldero claims to be Dublin ’s newest 'premium Asian eatery', promising to bring the bold and vibrant culinary traditions of the Philippines, Southeast Asia and India to life.
Photograph Nick BradshawWe’ve all heard of greenwashing, but what do you call it when a trio of big-name chefs – Richie Castillo, Daren Liew, and Alfred Prasad – are parachuted in to design a menu, only to vanish faster than a waiter when you need the bill? Chef-washing? Name-dropping? Whatever it is, Kaldero, the new restaurant from the-starred chef, and Daren Liew, the Cantonese maestro? Presumably back at their desks in London, brainstorming menus for their next “collaboration”. It would be fine if it was clear, but when the first image on the Kaldero website is a picture of the three chefs, followed by moody black and white shots of them in the kitchen, expectations are set. In fairness, there were no promises that they’d be manning the stoves during service in this smartly outfitted room, and our charming waiter confirms that “no”, they had not. When I visit, Ryan Bell, a Press Up stalwart since 2015, commands the pass as diligently as a chef led by standard operating procedures.and promises to bring the bold and vibrant culinary traditions of the Philippines, Southeast Asia and India to life. A gastronomic passport, if you will, which I soon discover is less of a culinary tour and more of a long-haul flight in economy with my knees pressed against the seat in front.Restaurant of the year, best value and Michelin predictions: Our reviewer’s top picks of 2024 Seafood Café restaurant review: A Sunday lunch seafood feast is a wonderful thing, especially at this price The menu includes 15 small plates – dynamite lumpia, chicken 65, scallops and the like – six mains, a handful of sides and three desserts, all basking in the reflected glow of their absent creator
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